Sustainable through Sweden: 20 stops in Småland & Öland
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A few months ago, our founding team, Madeleine and Benjamin, received a request: Would you like to travel through southern Sweden and discover many sustainable experiences in Småland and Öland?
Of course they wanted to!
After all, they have been taking their bus to Scandinavia on holiday for 10 years. In this blog, Madeleine reports on her trip through the two regions, which are just as picturesque as Astrid Lindgren's stories promise:
20 stops on a journey through nature, beautiful towns and unique production sites.
Ahoy, we are Madeleine, Benjamin and our little son. Come and join us on our sustainable trip to southern Sweden! Perhaps our report will inspire you to plan your next vacation in Småland and Öland? We hope you have fun!
1. Arrival & Preparation
“For the travel report, you should know that we were only on the road for a week and we would recommend that you plan at least 2 weeks if you want to see everything. And that leads to our first tip for sustainable travel: the principle of slow travel. Slow travel allows you, for example, to plan your purchases in advance, always use up food and get to know the local nature and culture much better.”
On June 31, 2023, the time has finally come, the journey begins! But we still have a lot to do:
- Our preparation for long car journeys always starts with an inspection of our VW T6 in the workshop. Safety first!
- Then we work through our shopping list. This includes, for example, cartridges for the gas cooker, fresh fruit and vegetables, lots of snacks and food that will keep for a long time even in warm temperatures in the car.
- We pack as little luggage as possible. This has two advantages: we don't have to move things around so much and we use less fuel. All of our bathroom products fit into a travel tin in the felt holder on the back seat. We use a "shower bar" for shampoo and shower gel, and we also replace toothpaste, sunscreen, conditioner and washing-up liquid with solid products.
- We all have our own water bottle, which we refill whenever we have the opportunity. I can also highly recommend a travel kettle and a mug that you always have with you so that you don't have to use coffee-to-go cups. Another tip for at home: I bought myself a favorite mug with a carabiner and have gotten into the habit of never leaving the house without it.
- This time we filled a casserole dish with vegan lasagna and whatever vegetables we had left over and just took it with us. We wrapped our bread in wax paper, which we reused during the trip when we needed to take opened food with us.
And then we were off. We decided to travel by ferry because we didn't want to travel long distances in one go with our little son. We spent the first night in Malmö and this is where the adventure in Sweden towards Småland and Öland began.
2. Ikea Museum in Älmhult
When looking for sustainable trends and developments in Sweden, one topic was immediately obvious: the furniture business. Because somehow the Swedes manage to make everything look pretty and tasteful, while at the same time being sustainably minimalist and long-lasting! So we made our first stop at the IKEA Museum in Älmhult.
“We still have some of the furniture from our youth rooms in our apartment and have also furnished our children's room with the Trofast shelf. It always looks tidy. We painted it white and stuck little wooden signs on it so that you know what's in the toy boxes.”
Since we were interested in the detailed history of IKEA's founding, we brought an employee to our side who patiently answered our questions. This IKEA store is the first that ever existed and shows the development of furniture over the years. What is particularly exciting is that you can also see the original designs here. Our son was able to discover things on every corner, scan barcodes, touch and get to know materials.
We spent a lot of time in the “Democratic Design” part of the main exhibition. This is about IKEA’s philosophy, including: How do we reconcile sustainability and affordability?
Together with form, function and quality, these are the five guiding principles of product development. This exhibition deals, among other things, with the use of recycled plastic and other materials that can reduce the ecological footprint of furniture. Since we are very interested in this aspect, we spoke to a museum employee about it in detail.
The exhibitions in the museum change regularly, so you can come back every year and see the developments. There are always recycling collections - be sure to keep your eyes open!
My personal highlight was visiting the museum shop, which offers many unique gift ideas that you will hardly find in any other IKEA worldwide. Here we took a pleasant break from the car journey and learned a lot. Our latest travel acquisition is a rainbow-colored IKEA bag, which we will use from now on to transport our BRACENET nets. We also plan to use it to collect waste should we come across any.
You can then enjoy a meal with your family in the in-house restaurant. By the way, in addition to the well-known dishes, there are now also vegan versions - have you heard of the Plantbullar?
For anyone who loves vegan and gluten-free treats and can't get enough of Swedish design at IKEA, we recommend the lovingly decorated Muff Café. The owner prepares many of the delicacies on offer personally at the counter. We love discovering the countries we travel to through their flavors and in this café you can get a first impression of Sweden with regional ingredients and herbs. We ate our way through the menu and can really recommend all of the dishes on the small menu. We were able to romp around in the garden with our son and felt very welcome here. The 207 positive Google reviews were right - be sure to make a little detour here.
With our little car fan on board, we of course had to visit the Bilkyrkogården Kyrkö Mosse car cemetery. This was once a scrapyard that Åke Danielsson operated from 1940 to 1991 and then left. But the vehicles remained.
Today, nature is literally reclaiming everything here. Lots of plants, even trees, are growing out of old, moss-covered vehicles. We took a break, transported ourselves to another time and imagined what the vehicles once looked like. During a walk in the forest, with rays of sunlight shining through the trees, we captured some wonderful images and thoroughly enjoyed our time. Our little man could get into almost every vehicle and didn't want to leave.
It's a shame that there is so much junk in nature - but it's also fascinating to see how nature reclaims its habitat.
3. Muff Café
https://www.instagram.com/muffalmhult/
For anyone who loves vegan and gluten-free treats and can't get enough of Swedish design at IKEA, we recommend the lovingly decorated Muff Café.
The owner personally prepares many of the delicacies on offer at the counter. We love discovering the countries we travel to through their flavors and in this café you can get a first taste of Sweden with local ingredients and herbs. We ate our way through the menu and can really recommend all of the dishes on the small menu. We were able to romp around in the garden with our son and felt very welcome here. The 207 positive Google reviews were right - be sure to make a little detour here.
4. Bilkyrkogården Kyrkö Mosse – the car cemetery
With our little car fan on board, we of course had to visit the Bilkyrkogården Kyrkö Mosse car cemetery. This was once a scrapyard that Åke Danielsson operated from 1940 to 1991 and then left. But the vehicles remained.
Today, nature is literally reclaiming everything here. Plants, even trees, are growing out of old, moss-covered vehicles. We took a break, transported ourselves to another time and imagined what the vehicles once looked like.
During a walk in the forest, with the sun shining through the trees, we captured some wonderful images and thoroughly enjoyed our time. Our little man was able to get into almost any vehicle and didn't want to leave.
It's a shame that there is so much junk in nature - but it's also fascinating to see how nature reclaims its habitat.
5. Getnö - Lake Åsnen Resort
One of our highlights was the Lake Åsnen Resort in Åsnen National Park. Although we have been to northern Småland several times, this was the first time we discovered this beautiful place.
The owner Ingrid, who is the second generation to run the park, loves and knows every stone here. She sees at least one moose every week on her daily forays through the national park. We learned that there is a female moose on almost every island and that the bull moose swim to the islands to mate. Maybe you'll be lucky and spot a swimming moose?
Here we felt like we were experiencing a piece of Canada in the middle of Sweden. It felt so far away from home, but it was only a day's journey away!
All around us there were lakes, small red romantic houses and unique nature. If you imagine Sweden by the lake, then that's exactly what it is. You can find such places all over Sweden, but here you drive around a corner every minute and have to exclaim out loud: "Oh, how beautiful!"
We stayed in this wonderfully equipped house:
https://www.getnogard.se/en/houses/haren
The house is equipped with everything you need for a pleasant camping experience, including a microwave, stove, grill and shower. If you fancy something warm, you can book meal packages that you can prepare yourself or simply sit down in the farm's own restaurant.
It was so cozy here that we are thinking about holding our next BRACENET team outing here. The location is well equipped for this and even has its own dance bar that you can rent.
We had a barbecue package with charcoal, which we immediately put to use. And here, too, there are vegan and vegetarian options.
You are in the middle of the most recent nature reserve inaugurated by the royal family. And you can feel it: a place as peaceful as we only know it from fairy tales.
Have you seen the "Big 5" of Åsnen? Here you can see ospreys, moose, black-throated divers, cranes and sea eagles up close. We even discovered a nest with young birds.
Here you can rent canoes or a boat and explore the lakes from the water. We discovered a huge black-throated diver egg and even saw one of these massive birds in the water.
Although we are not usually the biggest fans of camping sites, we recommend this place because of its secluded cabins and close proximity to nature. We only knew about a floating bathing island for sunbathing from summer stories - we would have loved to stay here longer.
Next time we will rent one of the houses that you can only get to by boat and stay a little longer.
https://www.getnogard.se/en/houses/vikingaborgen/
6. Åsnen Full Experience
From the resort you can go on numerous excursions and explore the surrounding area. We loved swimming in the lakes of Åsnen all day and returning to camp in the evening.
We were particularly impressed by the extensive recycling options both in the area and in the accommodations. At every starting point for hikes there were opportunities for correct waste separation and sufficient containers. There were even special buckets for dog and child waste.
Something that particularly struck us – there wasn't a single piece of garbage on the ground, in the bushes or in the lake. Not one. It touched us deeply that there are still places where both locals and visitors show so much respect for the environment.
As parents of a small child, it was very nice not to have to constantly remind them to pick something up. This meant we could concentrate on observing caterpillars and dragonflies. We looked at several routes, all of which we can recommend.
Here you can find a small overview:
https://www.vastervikoutdoor.com/vandring/
7. Kingdom of Crystal
Småland is famous for its glass art, which we now bring directly to your home and to your wrist. On our journey through Glasriket, the “Kingdom of Crystal”, we met Lioba, a glass artist who works both on commission and from her own creations. We had the opportunity to see the art of many guest artists in The Glass Factory and watch Lioba at work. We were particularly impressed by the fact that they reuse their surplus glass - this is real, elaborate and sustainable handwork.
Did you know that glass is mainly made of sand? For more information, listen to our podcast episode from Ocean Crime: https://ocean-crime.podigee.io/29-sandraub-wenn-der-welt-der-sand-ausgeht
In our shop there were two Bracenets inspired by our trip. One of them contained a glass bead made from Lioba's production surplus. With your purchase you not only support BRACENET and Healthy Seas, but also artists from the Kingdom of Crystal. Be sure to stop by again, maybe we'll have them in the shop again.
8. Öland
We expected a lot of great views from Öland, but this unique, partly barren landscape, with high peaks and endemic plants and animals, still surprised us. The roads that meander along the coast, the beautiful fine beaches and the scent of lilacs as far as the eye and nose can see. You will find the rugged coastline and the excellent food here without having to look far.
Öland is very different from the rest of Sweden and is definitely worth a visit. Even the north and south of the island are very different. Whether on foot, by bike or in a camper, you can have a very varied holiday here. We particularly liked the combination of our trip with the mainland and the island.
Throughout our entire journey, we were accompanied by entrepreneurs who had managed their accommodations, farms and restaurants with a lot of dedication and love over the last few years. They put their heart and soul into every nook and cranny and were able to tell us a story about every single corner.
This warmth will stay with us for a long time. What we appreciate about the Swedes is their reserve. However, if you ask questions and show interest, they will tell you their stories with shining eyes. It is no surprise that the royal family has a residence here and can maintain their anonymity despite the diverse culture.
9th Arontorp Kroppkakor
Arontorps Kroppkakor, Torslunda 102, 386 96 Färjestaden.
Delicacies that locals queue for an hour at Arontorps Kroppkakor? Definitely worth a try. If you're going to Öland, stop by and grab a portion to take home or try it on the spot. Here you'll find local dishes, either buffet style or to take away.
The Kroppkator consists of a potato dough filled with pork and onions, served with cream, butter and lingonberries. A tasty dish that surprised our palate. Particularly noteworthy is the strong emphasis on regional ingredients in Sweden, which keeps the carbon footprint of all meals low. Regional here means that the flour comes from the village mill, the milk from the neighboring farm and the cheese from a nearby dairy.
10. Hiking in the World Heritage Site: Agricultural Landscape in the South of Öland
Hiking through the south of Öland really amazed us. There are species of orchids that can only be found here and many herbs that now characterize the island's cuisine and taste. I recommend that you discover the island's treasures with a guide and learn something along the way. Over 140 km of hiking trails lead through this extraordinary southern Swedish landscape.
Although the landscape appears flat at first glance, you will continually discover new ground structures and numerous monuments that tell of another time. Our tour lasted about an hour and we enjoyed every second of it.
11. Eksgården Krog & Rum – Hotel and Restaurant
Address: Gårdby 149, 386 92 Färjestaden
On Öland we were also able to stay in a beautiful accommodation and enjoy probably the best food in years - and at a really good price. Eksgården Krog & Rum is a charming farm with delightful accommodation and a restaurant in a barn that delighted us with its culinary delights has.
Before we arrived, we read that you should feel like you are being hugged when you walk through the courtyard gate - and we can only confirm that. Our first thought was: we would like to live like that one day.
An inner courtyard, surrounded by Swedish houses, houses beautiful accommodations. If you are looking for peace and relaxation and want to be looked after, this is the right place for you.
In the evening we drank wine on our terrace and took dessert to our room. Although we had to move on for breakfast, we were given the best breakfast boxes for on the go. Everything was thoughtfully packaged, with no unnecessary packaging waste. The yogurt came in jars, which have now found a new home in our kitchen. Fresh fruit, fresh juices and vegan options were no problem. We are always happy about such options, even outside of the big cities in Germany.
12. Byrums Raukar
Address: Byrums Raukar, Folketshusvägen 76049, 760 49 Herräng
Wow – the 600-meter-long coastline of Byrums Rakar was impossible to miss. Rock formations with peaks lined the path, which you can walk through and even climb on. We have never seen anything like it before.
Peaks up to 4 metres high right on the coastline, followed by a beautiful beach where we collapsed into the powdery sand. We could have stayed here for hours.
13. Hotell Borgholm
Address: Trädgårdsgatan 15-19, 387 31 Borgholm
When I was doing research, I immediately fell in love with the Hotell Borgholm with its enchanted herb garden. It was once a well-known dance hotel on the island, where the wildest parties were held. Today it is a lovingly run hotel where the owner is the head chef himself. He breathed new life into the hotel and restaurant three years ago with his personal touch. In the garden suites you can feel the history, especially when you look into the herb garden. In the modern, lovingly designed restaurant you keep discovering old furniture that catches your eye. These were personally selected and reintroduced by Christofer Johansson.
A truly special place where you notice everywhere that many stories and people have come together here over the years. From the stationery on the menu to the hand-picked herbs, we felt welcome and flattered. We can also recommend a short walk in the cute town of Borgholm before heading back out into nature.
14. Västervik
The Tjust archipelago of Västervik is an underrated area that many have certainly never heard of. As far as the eye can see, we were amazed by the beauty of the small islands, some inhabited and some uninhabited, and the many white swans. Västervik is a pearl that is worth exploring in detail so as not to miss any beautiful corner or activity.
Västervik is an archipelago town and is home to the largest port on the Swedish east coast. Ferries dock here and there is a lot to explore and many different places to stay. If you are not the typical camper, this is your city.
When we arrived, we were greeted with a beautiful sunset on our gorgeous balcony. The sunsets here have to be seen and, above all, felt. When dusk falls on a warm summer evening in Sweden, it is a time you want to hold on to.
15. Slottsholmen on water
A childhood dream came true with the accommodation “Slottsholem on water” – and a BRACENET adult dream as well. The hotel is surrounded by water on the eponymous island of Slottsholmen. It is run by ABBA member Björn Ulvaeus and his daughter Anna Hydbom. But that alone does not make the hotel what it is – but what is inside it.
We were allowed to take a look behind the scenes and I really mean behind the scenes. We examined everything from the kitchen to the warehouse and the garbage room. The company operates sustainably here. The food is regional, the facade is made of recycled wood and when the garbage is separated, even the paper garbage bags are recycled. We have never seen that in such a large company.
There is a double heart hidden under Slottsholmen. One is the storage system for solar energy from the roof, which stores all excess energy in the summer months for the winter - not only for self-sufficiency, but also for distribution.
The second heart is the water treatment plant, which uses seawater to produce all the water for the hotel. Slottsholmen is truly a pioneer in the hotel industry when it comes to sustainable business and energy production.
A small highlight was definitely the record player with ABBA songs. Björn is not only the founder here - if you're lucky, you'll also meet him in person.
16. Västervik and the Archipelago by Sea and Eagle Safari
Sea and eagle safari with Marcus Höglund. After a very varied breakfast at Slottsholmen on water, let Marcus Höglund pick you up directly at the jetty: idoskargardskrog.se
Marcus will pick you up with his boat and life jackets directly from the jetty to start the sea and eagle safari. Off you go on a journey of discovery through the more than 5000 islands: He knows the area like the back of his hand and can answer all questions about the land and the people. But above all, he can tell you everything about the animals on the islands and in the water.
We drove to a seal island and at first thought we were unlucky and wouldn't see any. But Marcus's trained eye and his experience told us to wait. And lo and behold, after about 10 minutes the first seals blinked at us when they realized they had nothing to fear.
In this area, hunting seals is permitted - if they are a burden on the fisheries. Unfortunately, seals are increasingly breaking through nets in search of food, as fish stocks are declining here. This shows that if we were to use our planet's resources better, everyone would be better off - people, fish and seals.
After the trip we drove directly to the newly opened café and restaurant Idö Skärgårdskrog owned by Markus and Katarina: https://idoskargardskrog.se/
The most beautiful view of the archipelago and a short tour of the island to an old tower made the trip perfect. The two of them have lovingly prepared the Idö Skärgårdskrog. You can also take a small ferry to the restaurant and enjoy the day on the island.
We were transported back to our childhood memories here and could only imagine what it was like to spend a summer here as a child. We tried 3 main courses from the menu and still reminisce about them. Don't forget the apple crumble dessert, we would say it is one of the best we have ever had!
17. Gränsö snorkeling
One highlight follows the next! After our safari, Marcus drops us off in Gränsö with another Marcus: Marcus Nord is a passionate biologist at Naturum: https://www.naturumvastervik.se/
He snorkels with Benjamin through the water and they explore the seabed together. There are a lot of pipefish here and Marcus has put up some signs underwater to help you spot different types of algae. These can be seen not only underwater, but also when walking along the shore.
You can book guided tours for larger groups at Naturum. We have rarely met people like Marcus, who love their job so much and explain everything with enthusiasm.
18. Ingebo Hagar – Overnight stay and excursion destination with charm
Address: Ingebo Hagar, Ingebo 107, 598 91 Vimmerby
At Ingebo Hagar in Vimmerby they really do exist: the red courtyards, where families come together and have barbecues, collect eggs from the henhouse and sit in the garden until dusk, where children play catch and fall into the loft bed in the evening when their eyes get heavy... and much more!
We spend the night in a small, winding house that has both a north and a south-facing terrace, so that we can always sit in the sun. We look out over the huge vegetable garden while eating dinner and into the garden with a tree swing while eating cereal in the morning.
What else is there here? A farm shop with regional food. Sheep that want to be petted and grow old on the farm. Rabbits that dig large burrows and feast on fresh carrots...
Ingebo Hagar's farm has been family-owned for over 100 years. Only in recent years have overnight accommodation been added to the farm. The small red houses are upcycled from Astrid Lindgren World and are being given a second life here. Almost everything is self-built. Anyone who wants to live in the small garden house for a while for free can help out in the vegetable garden or renovate something on the farm.
Have you ever seen sheep's wool from a flower bed? Neither have we. It stores moisture and keeps the soil cool even in hot weather. In winter it stores heat. Ingebo Hagar is a farm awarded the KRAV label: Vegetables without chemicals, small carbon footprint, animal husbandry with really happy animals.
Here you have the opportunity to hike various trails, explore lakes or simply learn a lot about sustainable living by simply being there with your family. When we were there, a 95th birthday was being celebrated on the farm, so it really is a farm for young and old. Our son especially liked the many pedal tractors and cars, which were great to drive around the large barn.
Great care is taken to ensure that animals only come into contact with small children when accompanied by adults and that no one accidentally steps on any herbs. When new families arrive, there are guided tours and feedings that you can take part in.
19. Bullerbyn / Sevedstorp
“We Children from Bullerby” is a story about the idyllic life of childhood. Lasse Halmström's film adaptation of the Astrid Lindgren book was shot in the sweet village of Sevedstorp, where Astrid Lindgren's father grew up: in the middle of the beautiful Småland countryside, where the hustle and bustle of the big city is far, far away.
It is no surprise that this place is the basis for children's books. Small red houses that stand close together like in a fairy tale. The sun is shining, a swing squeaks, a hayloft stands right next to the "lemonade tree" from the stories. A few tears roll down my cheeks as I stand in front of the central courtyard. How often as a child I imagined living here myself, like the siblings Britta and Inga, Ole and his little sister Kerstin, and Lisa with her brothers Lasse and Boss!
The dream can become reality for you, because You can move into the middle courtyard via Airbnb .
20th Katthult
What can't be missed after Bullerby? Well, Michel's farm! In Katthult you can marvel at the family farm from the films. A small café in a barn stands next to the famous house in the middle of pastures. Those who know the stories will recognize scenes from the film in some corners of the farm. The shed where Michel carved wooden figures, or the ledge in front of the door where Michel poured water into his father's rubber boots.
That was our last destination before we traveled back to the real world in Hamburg via Denmark. We experienced as much in one week as we would normally do in a month of traveling and are happy to be returning home with so many new impressions in our luggage.
Thank you to Småland and Öland for this opportunity and this unforgettable trip. We came as strangers, left as friends and will be back.
See you soon!